Monday, November 3, 2014

Top 10 of Shanghai’s Lilong


From Hongkou district to the former French Concession, here is a selection of the 10 best Lilong (里弄), the traditional lanes of Shanghai.


Zheng Xiaoqiu: Between People’s Square and Shaanxi Road, in a shopping area where the property market is booming, you can find the most typical Lilong in town. Squeezed between two luxury stores of West Nanjing road, a big black gate will give you access to a real village inside the city. Here more than elsewhere, the Lilong is a social concept of life in community: large billboards with safety instructions as well as social life rules, water machine and fitness equipment, newspapers displayed for free... Located at 1025 Nanjing Road.

Tianzifang: for those who are discovering Shanghai, Tianzifang is the perfect example of Shikumen and Lilong. Its maze of renovated alleyways and souvenir shops attract trendy Chinese and Western tourists. The place is a little crowded but still very charming. The roof terraces are the best spots to really enjoy these lanes. Address: 1831 Taikang Road.
Cite Bourgogne

Cite Bourgogne: it looks like a French working class compound back to the 1930s.With its red brick gate, this lane of Shaanxi Road brings us back to the French Concession's time. But once you passed the entrance, this is China! Address: 287 South Shaanxi Road.

Duolun Lu: South of Hongkou Park , you will find the Duolun lane with its statues of new wave philosophers and writers from the 19th century. This is home of several antiques dealers selling old posters, furniture, clocks, tins... A weird church with a “pagoda-style” roof is hidden behind the lilong, don’t miss it!

The Lincoln lane: located in the western part of the former French Concession, where Shanghai began to expand in the 1930s. These small buildings have been primarily built for the middle class. Nothing amazing from the outside, you’ll have to explore the lanes to enjoy the charming traditional courtyards. Address: 1562 Huaihai Lu.

Kunshan Huayuan Lu, one of my favorite! Hidden in one of the shortest streets in Shanghai, this is certainly one of the oldest lane. Built in 1860, it is one of the finest lane in terms of architecture: stone pilasters and pediments, sculpted lintel, walls with different bricks colors. Address: 860 Sichuan Road, Kunshan Huayuan Road.

Shikumen in Cool Docks
Cool Docks: these red brick houses in an empty street remind me some suburb areas of England or Northern France. The heart of the docks is surrounded by bars and restaurants with large terrace. Ideal for an happy hour drink or a coffee. Address: 653 Waima Road.

The bucolic lane: in Hongkou district, north of the shopping street Sichuan Bei Road, a few lanes are still remaining between the buildings that have sprouted in the 1970s. Quiet atmosphere. Address: 1831 Sichuan Road.

Ferguson Lane, the Frenchy one: this courtyard is one of the most popular places amongst French expats. If you like real Italian pizza and wine in a bistro atmosphere, this is a place for you. Address: 376 Road Wukang

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

What are Shanghai's best areas to rent a villa?


Second largest municipality of China (after Chongqing) with over 23 million people, Shanghai offers diverse types of rental housing. Villa or apartment, in large international compound or intimate Lilong, find out the most popular areas to rent a villa in Shanghai.


1. Hongqiao - Gubei

 Some foreign families choose to settle in this area, which is located on the border between the city center and the suburbs. They enjoy this feeling of being part of the local life. They usually live in beautiful and comfortable villas, a few steps away  from small shops and bicycle repairmen. Easily accessible by metro, it’s also in Gubei that the Japanese and Korean communities have been living for decades.

For Anna, with a child at the French School, Hongqiao was "the perfect choice between Qingpu way out of the center and quiet, and the French Concession, too far from the school. It is a good compromise for everyone. I can reach very quickly the city center and the children are pretty close to their school too. We have the feeling of living "the Chinese way" with still the possibility to go to places for expats. It is a full immersion into the lively local life. We love that feeling.”


2. Minhang district

Generally, expatriate families choose to live in neighborhoods nearby international schools, where you can find nice villas and beautiful parks. A few years ago, Minhang was known as an empty and uninteresting district. With the development of the expat community, the area evolved little by little and now offers great restaurants and bakeries. It is also much quieter and less polluted than the center. In some areas of Minhang, you almost feel like being in the countryside, which is great for walks or bike rides. However, you can still enjoy the comfort of the city life since most of Shanghai’s districts offer villa rentals in luxury compounds with gym, swimming pool and many other facilities.

Linda, mother of 2 kids, confirms: " They are both enrolled in French school, so we chose this location for its proximity to the school as well as the size of villas and gardens. The kids go to school by bike or scooter (5 minutes), it's very nice and it gives them some autonomy. After school, they often find friends in our residence or just nearby. My husband who works in the city center appreciates to find peace and a bit of green in the late afternoon. He also travels a lot, Hongqiao Airport is only 15 minutes, so it's very convenient. On weekends, when the weather is nice, our friends from the city center are happy to come and enjoy a good barbecue in our garden! This does not prevent us from going very often in the city center for shopping or dining. "


3. Pudong District

For professionals who want to be close to their workplace, Pudong is a good alternative. These former swamps have bee replaced by modern compounds and office buildings since the 1990's. This is now one of the most urbanized areas of China, where skyscrapers are sprouting up everywhere!

While it may seem relatively far from major spots, Pudong district, particularly the Lujiazui financial area, appeals with its wide avenues and large parks, a place where it feels good to breathe.

For Michelle, the advantage of Lujiazui is that the city center is not so far away: "We chose Pudong for its proximity to my husband’s office, which is located near the airport but in fact, we are only 5 minutes away from the Bund and Puxi! Here, you have a feeling of space, with less crowded roads than downtown. There are also less pollution and more green areas".

Two years ago, Frank chose to settle near the second campus of the French School, further east: "As an expat family with 3 children, my wife and I wanted to stay close to what we were used to in France . It seemed important not to "disturb" our children because the trip was already a big change in our lives. We have always lived in a house so the villa was for us the only one option to consider. It’s important to have a garden where kids can play”.


4. The former French Concession

For single people or young couples, the former French Concession of Shanghai is one of the most attractive places in the metropolis. There are large apartments in higher buildings or small studios in charming more traditional lanes. For families, there are a few roads where you can find modern villas with garden, depending on the size, it can range from “very pricey” to “way too pricey”.

A little expensive for students, the former French Concession is considered as one of the most dynamic and trendy neighborhoods in Shanghai. Wine bars, beer bars, international cuisine restaurants, not a week goes by without the opening of a new venue. Its tree-lined streets have attracted thousands of people for many years.

Brian, father of 2 little girls, initially struggled to find happiness. "Agencies showed me places that did not meet our expectations at all. Eventually I found via a small ad from another expat who was leaving his villa. I live near Shanghai Library, a neighborhood that has the double advantage of being very quiet and very well located. Even though we are in the city center, the small charming tree-lined streets are usually well organized and pretty quiet. You really feel like you are living in the heart of Shanghai, sharing the locals life and meeting people from around the world. This area is a constant surprise! "


5. Jing’an district

Located North of the Yanan Lu, Jing’an district is also very well-situated, with a little less expensive range of accommodations. The district has many large and modern compounds where one can rent a big apartment, well equipped at very affordable price. Ideal for young professionals!

For villas, North Jing’an is undoubtedly the best area to look for. North of Changping Lu, you will find lots of villas in fairly new housing estates. They usually offer facilities such as gym, laundry service, playground for kids, etc.

Conrad and his wife, both in their thirties, have been living on Xinzha Lu for two years: "it’s a very convenient location near our respective offices. Many Chinese and international companies have their office here in North Jing’An, it takes us 10 minutes to go to work, this is such a pleasure! This certainly is not as good as the French Concession but the restaurants and bars offer here is still pretty good, this is such a lively neighborhood. "

How about you? What part of Shanghai did you choose to live in? Why? Please share your experience with us!

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

2 years in a lane house of the French Concession

Shanghai has a 20 million population, including the suburbs and a floating population of 3 to 7 million migrant workers seeking higher wages. Economic development of the early 90s clearly changed Shanghai’s urban landscape: tunneling, skyline in constant evolution, more subway lines, many things have changed in just a few years.

So where is it good to live in such a huge and contrasted city? You are not the first who came up with this question, since more than 200 000 expatriates are living in Shanghai.

Shanghai is a strange mix of styles, divided into two main parts separated by the river Huangpu: Puxi, the west part, where you can see many vestiges of the "Old Shanghai" in historic areas such as the former French Concession with its tree-lined alleys and the Bund in Huangpu district, one of the world’s biggest Art Deco legacy. Pudong, the east part of the river, is the home of the brand new financial center made of gleaming skyscrapers: Lujiazui. This is a very fascinating aesthetic architecture. But the city "overflows" on all sides and if it is limited by the sea in the East (don’t expect to find a beach though), it pushes its borders well beyond Puxi in the West.

Many international schools are flourishing in this suburban neighborhood, both in Puxi (Minhang, Qingpu, Xujing) and Pudong. Many expat families send their children to the British or American school, especially when they are young. There are fewer expatriates who choose a Chinese education as it is possible in some posh private schools.Your choice of accommodation will be directly related to the composition of your family, school and work constraints.

You can find in international schools areas lots of accommodations for expatriates, spacious apartments in very modern and nice compounds, with sports facilities, playgrounds for children, or huge villas in housing estates designed for rich locals and expats. The foreign families who settled in the area mainly focus on proximity to schools and "international" stores, space and security for children who can ride and play outside freely.

Although our children are enrolled in French school located in Pudong, we made a different choice as we are living downtown, in a renovated lane house as there are many in the heart of the former French Concession. It certainly is a little less convenient, but we appreciate the bike rides through the old tree-lined streets and the lively atmosphere of our little alley.

We have been renting this lane house in Shanghai for 2 years now, and even if we have considered the option of moving for a place that would be closer to the kids’ school, we can’t really see ourselves living somewhere else. This is every family’s decision to make. This is a very personal decision for which there is no advice to give. Weigh the pros and cons and make sure it meets your family and personal expectations.

Our lane house is located on Fumin Road. It has 2 entrances, which is quite common for this type of houses. We have a small but pretty stylish courtyard where I love to lie down and read. The street is really quiet at night, we almost forget we are living in the most central place of Shanghai.

The greatest thing of living in the middle of the French Concession is the wide choice of restaurants, bars and cafes for all tastes. Getting out of our lane house, I just need to cross the street to have a homemade apple pie from this trendy little French cafe.

The rental contract is usually one year. It is always possible to change if you realize you made the wrong choice. We frequently see people moving from neighborhood schools to the city center and vice versa, to make life easier, to stay close to other expat friends, to change the school of children who have grown up or to have more space or suitable amenities.

An increasing number of foreign families also choose Pudong to settled down, usually in ultra modern apartments or in villas on the “greener” periphery. Pudong is developing very fast and now offers a good transportation network allowing its inhabitants to reach the west side of the Huangpu river pretty quickly. However, with its wide and empty avenues full of the same concrete buildings, this district may seem a bit sad and soulless somehow.

For those who want to find an old house in the former French Concession, I recommend Zunest, it’s well-made and so far the most useful database I have found in Shanghai.